When you go further in A cook's tour, new dimensions of
Bourdain's experience appear to the reader. The first conclusion to
draw is that food is a dangerous leisure (can we even call it leisure
again? I have my doubts.) The cook starts the chapter relating his
trip to Can tho, Vietnam, as follows : « I just had the
closest near-death experience I've ever had. And I'm about to have
another one. Then another. » (p. 129).
Stuck in a car crazily driven by a Vietnamese (or a car driven by a
crazy Vietnamese, you can choose) Bourdain and his TV acolytes escape
narrowly death several times, experiencing the so-wanted local way of
living. The secret ? Speed and confidence. Above all, don't look into
your rear-view mirror. Cherry on the cake, they also avoid to kill
several families, by bunch on 5 on a motorbike along the roadsides.
What more could you ask for ? The name of the chapter, “highway of
death”, is barely exaggerated.
The lesson is clear for the reader: food is not a completely save
adventure. When you commit yourself to it, you are not guaranteed to
stay unharmed. While this idea can be taken for what it is, it might
also be a suitable metaphor for passion. Once you put a finger into
the gears of cooking, it is hard to step back, not to say impossible.
Trust me, Bourdain would confirm it.
Through the pages and the roads, the Chef took the path of thinking,
a process during which he learnt both alterity and companionship.
Sharing with his TV followers terrible nauseas -either provoked by
excess of food or disgust- in almost each new destination; sharing
amazement when they discovered the magic of exoticism (Japan, Mexico,
England, Vietnam); sharing fear when threatened by armed locals,
dubious food or angry cooks, Bourdain lived his travel experience
through the lens of the “us,” either in conviviality or
misfortune.
But the food adventure is also cultural. The confrontation to
alterity, through different food and customs (eating pets or cute
little animals was probably the toughest pill to swallow), pushed the
cook to put things into perspective, considering food in a completely
new way. It is not only about aliments, cooking or sugar quantity. It
is about being part of something bigger: culture. To find the perfect meal, then, appears vain. Bourdain
says it himself: “the whole concept of the 'perfect meal' is
ludicrous. 'Perfect,' like 'happy,' tends to sneak up on you. Once
you find it -like Thomas Keller says- it's gone.” The perfect meal
is not, after all, bugs in the desert, dogs in Vietnam or Japanese
dishes. The perfect meal is eating with the people we love. Wherever
and whatever. Bourdain just needed a bit longer -one year abroad
still- to realize that.
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